Tourist & Resident Guide to Iran

Monday, August 21, 2006

Iran’s Fuel Leak Naghadeh

gasoline queue, Naghadeh
gasoline queue, Naghadeh
gasoline queue, Naghadeh
The twelve-pump state-owned filling station in Tehran’s Velenjak suburb had never seen a queue like this. Though constantly and doggedly jammed with an irreconcilable jumble of aging Paykan taxis, family-owned Kia Prides and sleek German status-mobiles, there is never more than a 20-minute wait.

But here in Naghadeh, West Azerbaijan, it was nearly a kilometre before any indication of the petrol station could be seen above the roofs of the jeeps and pickups that filed motionless down the dusty highway. There was, however, no sign of unrest. The drivers, resigned to spending the day here, either slept or chatted and shared tea and melons in the shade.

The complete absence of regular city cars at this local filling station told the whole story. Naghadeh, situated southwest of salt-infused Lake Urumieh, is a prime filling point for gasoline smugglers. The nearby border with Iraq has become porous since US forces handed control over to Iraq’s own forces four months ago. All of these sturdy, hard-working vehicles will take their full tanks west into Iraq and then finally to Turkey where petrol prices are ten to fifteen times more expensive than at Iranian pumps.

No greater irony can exist in oil-rich Iran than a shortage of petrol. Iran consumes 70 million litres of petrol per day while its refineries produce only 40 million – making Iran a net importer of petrol despite having the world’s third largest oil reserves.

The causes are well-known and endemic. Government subsidies keep pump prices down to as low as 800 Rials ($0.09) per litre which encourages wasteful consumption and provides an incentive for smugglers.

Government plans to curb this problem through rationing have been shelved due to the absence of a framework to track consumption and the general public’s heavy over-reliance on private cars and taxis. Indeed it is hard to imagine car-clogged Tehran taking rationing or a hike in petrol prices lying down.

Shortages, intolerable waits and empty pumps have motivated Naghadeh residents to pre-empt the national government in taking action. They have forced local lawmakers to accept a rationing system of their own design. Computer systems which track the registration numbers of vehicles coming to local pumps have been supplied and programmed entirely at the expense of private citizens. Motorists are now limited to one full tank every three days. Since most smugglers try to make one trip per day, this measure is set to cut queues significantly.

Nevertheless, this local measure is unlikely to be a precursor to any national efforts. While oil revenues continue to be buoyed by soaring prices, Iran will not be forced to take any painful measures to ease its dependence on imported petrol. For the meantime at least, it can afford to feed its unhealthy addiction by providing the rest of the world with the raw materials to feed their own.

Iranian Music CDs

Books on Iran

Guide to Tehran

Saturday, August 19, 2006

Azadi Monument Tehran

Tehran's most famous architectural symbol is the Azadi (“Liberty”) Monument in Azadi Square. It was constructed in 1971 as part of Mohammad Reza Shah’s celebrations to commemorate 2,500 years (by his own count) of Persian monarchy and was hence named the Shahyad Tower. It was given its current name after the 1979 revolution which saw all indications of the former regime stripped from streets of the city.

The 50m tower, clad entirely in cut marble, is said to combine Islamic architecture and the earlier Sassanid style. Situated near Mehrabad Airport, it was the first sight to welcome visitors to Tehran for many years before international flights were recently redirected to the new Imam Khomeini Airport near Qom.

The basement floor houses a museum and cultural centre and the roof can be accessed by elevator. Though it retains great affection among Iranians, the Azadi Tower is now in competition with the 435m Milad Tower for its place as the symbol of the city.

Azadi Tower

Azadi Tower

Azadi Tower

Guide to Tehran

Thursday, August 03, 2006

Iran Images: Resistance Stations in Vanak Square

At major pedestrian and traffic intersections around the city of Tehran, makeshift shelters have been set up to spread the anti-Israeli message. If there was any ambiguity about the position of the government of the Islamic Republic of Iran regarding Israel, there can be no doubt about it now - "Israel must be wiped out [sic] the world".

Resistance Station, Vanak Square

Resistance Station, San'at Square

Book on Iran

Photographs of Iran

Tuesday, August 01, 2006

Images: More Pro-Hezbollah Propaganda

The pro-Hezbollah propaganda machine goes into overdrive in Tehran.

Seyyed Hassan Nasrallah

Hassan Nasrallah pictured in the rear windscreen of a Pride hatchback.

Hassan Nasrallah

Photographs of Iran