Monday, January 26, 2026

Iranian Music: Daf

The daf (Persian: دف), also known as dâyere or riq, is a traditional Iranian frame drum used in both popular and classical music. It is widely played across Persian-influenced regions of South and Central Asia, including Iran, Afghanistan, Azerbaijan, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, parts of Georgia and Armenia, Pakistan, and areas of India.

The daf is the other of Iran’s indigenous drums – the other is the donbak which I've already talked about elsewhere.

As you can see from the picture, the daf is a wide, circular, frame drum. Inside the frame of the drum are hundreds of metal rings in short chains. The player beats the drum with his fingers while supporting it in his palms.

With the movement and beating of the daf, the rings inside the frame strike the skin – the same way as the springs of a snare drum work. The sound is a combination between a bass boom caused by the hand and a high-pitched crash from the rings. The daf is a drum for dancing to. Indeed, it is the drum to which Sufi mystics dance the whirling, trance-inducing dance known as sama.

Sunday, January 25, 2026

Useful Sites on Iran & Iranian Culture

Here is a listing of websites in English we recommend on Iran and Iranian culture. If you think we have missed something please let us know.

Iranian Art & Exhibitions

britishmuseum.org (Ancient Iran Collection)

Iranian Culture

iranchamber.com

Food

familyspice.com/persian-recipes

tasteatlas.com (Where to Eat Locally)

Iran News

aljazeera.com/where/iran

bbc.com/persian

farhangsara.com

farsnews.ir

ifpnews.com (Iran-based news agency)

iransource (Atlantic Council - Washington DC-based think tank)

iranWire.com (Independent reporting)

irna (Islamic Republic News Agency)

parstimes.com

presstv

tehrantimes (state-affiliated)

Iran Sport

persianleague.com

soccerphile.com

Iran Travel

surfiran.com

lonelyplanet.com/iran

Saturday, January 24, 2026

Iranian Embassy Tokyo

Iran Embassy, Tokyo

The Iranian embassy in Tokyo is housed in a modern building in Hiroo.

Access
3-13-9, Minami Azabu,
Minato-ku
Tokyo 106-0047
Tel:(03) 3446-8011/15

japan.mfa.gov.ir

Hiroo Station on the Hibiya Line (15 mins walk) or Shiroganetakanawa Station on the Nanboku Line (10 mins walk).

Friday, January 23, 2026

Stained Glass In Iran

Stained glass is used in many mosques in Iran often in beautiful patterns. Shiraz is particularly well-known for its stained glass.

Reflections from stained glass in Shiraz.

Guide to Tehran

Sitemap - list of posts on Iran

Wednesday, January 21, 2026

Tasbi (prayer beads)

Strings of prayer beads are known as tasbi in Iran and here are some on sale in Tajrish bazaar. Most often they are seen dangling from the hands of middle- to old-aged men who tend to fiddle with them rather aimlessly.

However, for devout grandmothers, they are indispensable tools for tallying the number of prayers required to get a grandson into university or a sister out of her sickbed.

More on Tasbi(h)

Tasbih beads, also called misbaha or subha, are prayer beads used by Muslims to count recitations of praise and remembrance (dhikr) for Allah, helping to maintain focus and enhance spiritual connection during devotion. Typically featuring 99 beads (or 33, cycled three times), they are used to count phrases like "Subhan Allah" (Glory be to God) or "Alhamdulillah" (Praise be to God), and often include a leader bead (imame) and a tassel.

Tuesday, January 20, 2026

Cars in Iran

According to a 2004 report in the Iran Daily, Iran would have 25 million vehicles on its roads by the year 2020 up from the 2004 figure of 5.4 million. Of this number, approximately half are crammed in to the capital Tehran.

Cars in Iran

Iran has had its own car industry since the 1960s and now exports cars to a number of other countries including Russia and Belarus. Iran Khodro Industrial Group, the country's major vehicle manufacturer, hopes to export 250,000 cars to the world market by 2010, targetting such countries as Egypt, Turkey and Eastern Europe as areas of growth with plans for joint production ventures under license in such countries as China, Senegal and Syria.

Iran's first mass-produced car, the ubiquitous Paykan, based on the 1966 Hillman Hunter, was produced domestically by Iran Khodro from kits shipped by the British manufacturer Rootes. In 1978 Peugeot took over the defunct Rootes Company, and production was shifted under license to Iran, ceasing only in 2005.

The Paykan has been superseded by Iran Khodro's new model, the Samand, which is based on the Peugeot 405. Plans are underway to produce a hybrid version of the Samand under pressure from the government to reduce vehicle emissions in Iran.

Iran has a significant domestic car manufacturing industry, producing over a million vehicles annually, primarily through large state-influenced companies like Iran Khodro (IKCO) and Saipa, making it one of the world's largest automakers despite relying heavily on older designs and licensed technology from international partners like Peugeot and Renault.

Visitors can also still see old American cars from the 1970s here and there.

Persimmons in Iran

Persimmons (khormaloo) are a popular autumn fruit in Iran.

Monday, January 19, 2026

Sistan and Baluchestan Province

Sistan and Baluchestan is the largest of Iran's thirty provinces by area. Sistan is the area to the north and Baluchestan lies to the south bordering Pakistan.

The province as a whole has a population of over 4 million people and is one of the driest and poorest areas of the country. Zahedan, with over half a million inhabitants, is the provincial capital and it is possible to pick up visas here for both neighboring Pakistan and India.

Zabol (pop. 132,000) is an exotic and dangerous border town with Afghanistan to the north of Zahedan.

There are flights to both Zahedan (daily) and Zabol (weekly) from Tehran. There are shared taxis (savaris) from Zahedan to Zabol.

Iranian Music CDs

Guide to Tehran

© Iranvisitor.com

Sunday, January 18, 2026

Images: Moraq Mosaic Tiles

Moraq Mosaic Tiles

This isn’t a historical building by any means. It’s just a decoration on the outer wall of the compound of an official building on Valiasr Avenue. It is, however, a nice example of the Moraq (mosaic) style of Iranian tilework in which small pieces of glazed tile are placed closely together over a previously laid-out pattern to form a decorative panel which can then be cemented to a wall.

This form of tilework reached its peak in the Timurid Period (14-15th century CE) and can be seen on monuments in Iran such as Goharshad Mosque in Mashad, (1418 CE), the Jom'eh Mosque of Yazd (1456 CE), the Jom’eh Mosque of Varamin (1322 CE) and the Khan Madreseh in Shiraz (1615 CE).

More on tiles as soon as I get some good pics!

Photographs of Iran

Saturday, March 30, 2013

Alam in Ashura

An "alam" is a heavy ritual cross which is carried during the Ashura festival. The word "alam" means "flag" or "sign" in Arabic.

Ashura is a Muslim festival and commemorates the martyrdom of Husayn ibn Ali, the grandson of Muhammad, killed at the Battle of Karbala in Iraq in 680 CE. The festival is of particular significance to Shias.

Above you can see a teenage boy carrying the heavy alam in an act of self-mortification for the festival of Ashura in Tehran. Ashura is marked by such acts of mourning and grief with participants often beating themselves on the chest or using chains to flagellate themselves to express their sorrow and loss.

Iranian Music CDs Books on Iran Guide to Tehran

© Iranvisitor.com

Monday, May 21, 2012

Kormeh Sabzi & Aash Reshteh Recipes

Kormeh Sabzi

If you love your greens and meat together then this simple Persian preparation is just the thing you need. Gently spiced and flavorful it goes well with rice or bread.

Ingredients

Greens
1 cup chopped parsley
1 cup fenugreek leaves (chopped)
1 cup spinach (chopped)
1 cup chives (chopped)

Rest of the Ingredients
250 grams mutton (minced)
250 grams lima beans (soaked overnight or soak two hours before on the day if you don’t like them very soft)
1 onion (grated/finely diced)
2 tbsps oil
Salt and pepper to taste

Seasoning
1 tsp dried mango powder
12 tsp turmeric

Method

Usually Iranians fry their greens in oil and keep aside but a healthier way of making the dish is to cook them without frying them.

Add salt, pepper and onion to the mince and mix well. Make small balls and fry in the oils until golden brown. Don’t make the balls very big as cooking them is easier when kept medium (lemon sized).
Remove and keep aside.

In the same oil add the greens, beans, turmeric and dried mango powder with salt to taste. After two minutes add the meat balls and allow to cook, covered and on medium heat until the water dries up and a gravy like consistency is obtained.

Aash Reshteh

This is a lovely soupy concoction which is great on a rainy day or a cold wintry day. Wholesome and tasy it is a meal in itself!

Ingredients

1 can nokhod (chickpeas) or 1 cup dry nokhod (chickpeas/garbanzo)
1 cup adas (lentils)
1 cup lobiya ghermez (red beans or red kidney beans)
1/4 cup navy beans (optional)
1 pack of Reshteh (noodle)
1 medium Onion - chopped
Kashk
chopped garlic
dry mint
salt/pepper
turmeric (optional)
2 table spoons flour (optional as a thickening agent)
Sabzi (greens) for the Aash (soup) include: parsley, cilantro, spinach, green onions, shevid (dill) Combine in the ratio (3 parsley: 2cilantro: 2 green onions: 1 spinach)
Shevid (dry dill) - approximately 4 spoonfuls

Method

Most people soak their red beans and lentils the night before but soaking them on the day of cooking, instead of overnight works best as they don’t overcook and soften. While your beans are soaking, clean and chop parsley, cilantro, spinach, and green onions. Do not over chop the greens.

Cook the aash in a very large pot. Place some water in the pot and bring it to a boil. Drain the beans (the nokhod, red beans, navy beans, and lentils) and boil in the water for about 10 - 15 minutes. Once again drain the beans and add a small amount of chopped onions (with some oil) in the pot. Add the beans back into the pot after the onions are sautéed a bit.

At this point add some turmeric powder to the beans. Next add all the fresh greens and dried shevid (dill) and some more water. Stir constantly to ensure nothing is sticking to the bottom of the pot and everything cooks evenly. Next add some sautéed mint with lightly browned onions and garlic to the aash reshteh. Add a little cold water to the flour and mix it into a paste. This is an optional step. Then add some kashk into the pot and stir. Now let this pot cook for 3-4 hours, stirring occasionally.

The last thing to add is the reshteh. When you serve the aash, decorate with sautéed mint, onions, and garlic and some kashk.

Mariam Noronha

Sunday, April 29, 2012

Shopping in Tehran

Tehran, Iran's capital and biggest city is choc a bloc with the colors and flavors of Persia.

Tehran's fashion conscious people, blend of the modern and traditional make it a great place to shop, eat and mingle with people. Here is a look at some shopping options you can explore on your visit to Tehran.

The Grand Bazaar

You can begin your shopping sojourn in Tehran with a visit to the Grand Bazaar, a must-see tourist attraction located in southern Tehran. Traditionally, this bazaar was split into several corridors, each of which was a hub for sellers specializing in different types of goods. The corridors here are over 10 kilometers in length teeming with a variety of goods such as carpets, copper, spices, and precious metals, gems, jewelry as well as small traders selling a range of goods.

There are several entrances to the Grand Bazaar some of which are locked and guarded at night. It is difficult to say exactly when the "bazaar" first appeared, but in the centuries following the introduction and spread of Islam in Persia, historians believe that trade and commerce spawned in this very location way back in time. The Grand Bazaar is a continuation of the legacy of this growth.

Tandis Center

If you are looking for good quality products in Tehran then head to Tandis Center where you will find the best brands in almost every type of product. Home to brands like Levis, Dior, Espirit, Zolo and Zara among others this shopping center is a great place to buy textile products like the termeh, garments, scarves, trench coats, shoes, furniture and home décor products, basically whatever you need.

Tandis Center is a great place to grab a bite with its many restaurants, fast food centers and coffee shops too.

Tajrish Bazaar

A charming place where you can window shop, soak in the atmosphere and buy everything that's colorful and interesting from fresh fruits and vegetables to home décor products and textiles.

Prices here are relative and you can bargain to strike a good deal. Everything has its own relative price, and even you can discuss the prices.

Currency and Other Related Information for Shoppers

The official currency of Iran is the Riyal. However, the currency commonly used for everyday life is called 'Toman'. 10 Riyals make 1 Toman. Be sure to check the units used for the prices.

It is important to note that Credit Cards such as Visa, MasterCard, and American Express are not widely used in Iran. Iran has its own local debit/credit system. Consult with your travel agent before traveling to Iran. Even though some hotels and traditional handicraft shops accept credit cards you cannot rely on credit cards for most transactions.

A shopping trip in Tehran as is anywhere else in Iran is an experience in itself. The bazaars are colorful and bustling with families eager to buy or simply window shop. You are sure to spot tea sellers in their colorful attire as juggle teacups in one hand while they pour the aromatic beverage with the other. The aroma of freshly baked bread is in the air as people line up at bakeries to get a freshly baked loaf of bread while others stop for a glass of sherbet or juice. A shopping trip is a great opportunity to go bazaar hopping while mingling with the local people.

Map of Tehran

Mariam Noronha

Thursday, March 29, 2012

Persian Berry Rice

Zereshk Pulo Murgh or Persian Berry Rice is a main course item that one can rustle up with ease while adding that traditional Persian touch to a meal. Here is how simple this dish really is.

Ingredients (To Serve 4-5)

3 cups rice - washed and soaked in water
2-3 chicken breasts (cut in to large chunks)
1 medium onion finely chopped
Saffron strands soaked in warm milk
sugar (3-4 spoonfuls)
1 cup zereshk (berberris)
Salt/pepper to taste
Half teaspoon turmeric
Oil

Cooking Directions

Sauté onions in a pan until tender and translucent, add in the chicken pieces. Stir the pieces around for a minute or so and then add salt, pepper and turmeric powder. Add one cup of water and cover the pan to let the chicken cook. Set the temperature on medium to low and allow it cook for 30-45 minutes.

Once the chicken is cooked you can retain 1/2 cup of the chicken stock (after straining it) in case you would like to pour it over the rice later.

In a large pot bring water to a boil, and then add rice. Be sure to drain the water in which you have soaked the rice before you add the rice to the boiling water. Once the rice boils drain it and set it aside. Add about half a cup to one cup water to the pot with oil or butter. Put the pot back on the stove and leave it on high temperature. Pour the rice into the pot.

At this point it is a matter of personal choice whether you want to add the chicken pieces in the pot between two layers of the rice. You can also make the chicken separate from the rice for Zereshk Polo. In case you chose to save chicken stock earlier you can pour it over the rice now. However, if you want to keep your Zereshk Polo closer to a white color and not a yellow then don’t pour saffron into your chicken stock.
Once this is done cover the lid of the pot with a towel and place it over the pot. When steam starts escaping from the sides of the pot you can lower the temperature and allow the rice to cook for 40 minutes to 1 hour.

Clean the zereshk (barberries) and wash them. Place them in a small pot and set the temperature to medium. Add some oil to the zereshk (barberries) and add a little liquid saffron and some sugar into the pot and mix. Do not overcook the berries.

Serving Directions: When you are ready to serve the rice put half the rice on a serving platter and mix 2/3 of the rest of the rice with 2/3 of the barberries and pour on top of the rice. Add saffron to the rest of the rice and the remaining barberries and spread onto the top of the platter. Place the chicken around the platter or keep in a separate platter.

Mariam Noronha

Iranian Music CDs

Books on Iran

Guide to Tehran

© Iranvisitor.com