Iran Travel Blog - Iran & Tehran Guide

Iranian Embassy In London Closed

2011-12-04T09:43:00.000+03:30

Iranian Embassy in London Closed

Following the latest diplomatic spat between the UK and Iran, the Iranian embassy in London and the British embassy in Tehran have both been closed.

Iranian Embassy in the United Kingdom
16 Prince's Gate
London SW7 1PT

Nearest underground station is Knightsbridge on the Piccadilly Line

Iran Visitor on Twitter

Iran Visitor on Twitter

2011-12-03T09:35:00.001+03:30

Follow IranVisitor on Twitter. If you have an Iran-related Twitter account please follow IranVisitor on Twitter and we'll follow right back. We look forward to reading your tweets on Iran.

Calling Iran from abroad

2011-11-07T18:23:00.000+03:30

You can easily call Iran from the United States from your mobile phone or by using international phone cards. Here are the codes you need to use:
- 011 – use this code first for all international calls from the US
- 98 – dial the country code for Iran
- Area code – dial the 2-3 digit area code; for example, the area code for Tehran is 21, while for Shiraz is 711
- Phone number – now insert your phone number, made out of 7 or 8 digits.

For making international calls to cell phones in Iran, use the following sequence:
- 011 + 98 + 9XX XXX XXXX

Dolat Abad Garden Yazd

2011-10-30T15:18:00.000+03:30

Dolat Abad Garden (Bagh-e Dolatabad) in Yazd was built in the early 18th century as a residence of a governor of Yazd.

Vakil Bazaar

2011-09-29T18:25:00.000+03:30

Vakil Bazaar in Shiraz is the city's main market and located in the historic heart of the old city.

The market is thought to date from the 11th century and is a good place to buy Persian carpets, ethnic clothes (as pictured), copper ornaments and local herbs and spices. nearby are a number of mosques, bathhouses and caravanserais.

Photographs of Iran

London Iranian Film Festival

2011-08-23T18:51:00.000+04:30

The second London Iranian Film Festival takes place in November from 18-26th with other events and screenings happening throughout the summer.

The Apollo Cinema on London's Regent Street and the French Institute's Cine Lumiere will screen some of the selected movies and there will be awards in four categories: feature film, documentary, short film and animation.

The Opera House in Holland Park showed the film The Song of Sparrows by Majid Majidi on August 22nd.

For further details see the website of ukiff.org.uk

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Stained Glass In Iran

2011-07-29T10:41:00.000+04:30

Stained glass is used in many mosques in Iran often in beautiful patterns. Shiraz is particularly well-known for its stained glass.

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The Provinces of Iran

2011-06-26T11:27:00.001+04:30

Iran has 31 provinces or ostan each governed by a provincial governor-general. Sistan and Baluchistan is the largest Iranian province by area, slightly bigger than Kerman. Tehran is the largest by population by some distance and has the highest population density.

The provinces are further divided into counties (shahrestan), and then subdivided into districts (bakhsh) and sub-districts (dehestan).

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Iran's Post Office

2011-05-31T13:13:00.000+04:30

Iran’s post office is easily recognized with its yellow logo on a blue background. Iran's postal service is being privatized, though the post office will still be responsible for mail delivery.

Iranian addresses are supposed to have a 10-digit post code. Ordinary letters up to 250g cost from 30,000 to 70,000 rial (2011 prices) to send overseas depending on the zone.

Iran Post

Cyrus Cylinder

2011-04-24T17:12:00.000+04:30

The Cyrus Cylinder, a 2,500 year old clay artefact, has been on display recently at the National Museum of Iran in Tehran, on loan for a special exhibition from the British Museum in London.

The Cyrus Cylinder dates from King Cyrus' conquest of ancient Babylon in 539 BCE and his subsequent freeing of the subservient peoples of the city state, who had been enslaved there, including a sizeable Jewish population.

The ancient cuneiform script pronounces the rights of all religious groups to worship the god(s) of their choice.

Over 1 million people are believed to have viewed the Cyrus Cylinder while it was on display in the Iranian capital.

British Museum

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Ramsar

2011-03-29T04:28:00.000+04:30

The Caspian Sea resort of Ramsar, north west of Tehran, was the site of the 1971 Convention on Wetlands signed in the town. This year is the 40th anniversary of the Ramsar Convention and a number of events are planned to mark the occasion.

The full list of wetland sites in Iran itself is available here and includes: Bujagh National Park, Govater Bay and Hur-e-Bahu, Lake Gori, Lake Kobi, Lake Urmia, Lake Parishan & Dasht-e-Arjan.

Ramsar Convention

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32nd Anniversary of the Islamic Revolution Day

2011-02-11T04:39:00.000+03:30

February 11 is the 32nd Anniversary of the Islamic Revolution and a national holiday in Iran.

Ayatollah Khomeini came to power in 1979 at this time.

Other national holidays in Iran are:

Oil Nationalization Day - March 20
This day celebrates the nationalization of the Anglo-Iranian Oil Company in 1951.

Noruz - around March 21-24
Iranian New Year "Noruz" (lit. new day) is celebrated on the Spring Equinox and many Iranian return to their home towns during this period.

Islamic Republic Day - April 1
The anniversary of the beginning of the Islamic Republic.

Sizdah Bedar - April 2
This is the 13th day of the Persian new year when many Iranians leave their homes and go on picnics to avoid bad luck.

Heart-Rending Departure of the Great Leader - June 4
The anniversary of the death of Ayatollah Khomeini in 1989.

Anniversary of the Arrest of Ayatollah Khomeini - June 5
The anniversary of the arrest of Ayatollah Khomeini in 1963, when he urged Muslims to revolt against the superpowers.

Anniversary of the Death of Dr. Seyed Behesthi - June 28
The anniversary of the death of Dr. Seyed Behesthi, a key Khomeini ally in 1981. Behesthi was killed by a bomb blast, along with 72 other people, at a meeting of the Islamic Republic party.

Day of the Martyrs of the Revolution - September 8
The anniversary of the deaths of several hundred people killed when Iranian troops fired on a Tehran demonstration against the Shah in 1978.

Religious Holidays

Iran also has many religious holidays which are celebrated on dates according to the Muslim lunar calendar.

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Mehrabad International Airport Arrivals & Departures

2011-01-29T05:27:00.001+03:30

Mehrabad International Airport is no longer Tehran's major international airport. This is now Imam Khomeini International Airport (IKA). Mehrabad Airport in downtown Tehran, remains as the main domestic flight hub.

Iran Air, Iran Air Tours, Mehan Airlines, Kish Air and Iran Aseman are some of the major Iranian airlines flying into and out of Mehrabad Airport (THR).

Iran Air has flights to Ahvaz, Ardabil, Bandar Abbas, Birjand, Bushehr, Gheshm, Isfahan, Kermanshah, Kish Island, Lar, Mashhad, Rasht, Shahre-Kord, Sary, Shiraz, Tabriz, Urmia, Yazd and Zahedan.

Flight information is provided by FlightStats, and is subject to the FlightStats Terms of Use.

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Ice Pack

2010-12-25T13:07:00.001+03:30

Ice Pack is an extremely popular chain store selling ice-cream products, donuts, snacks and hot and cold drinks. Ice Pack was founded by Babak Bakhtiari and began life in Niavaran in Tehran and now has over 200 stores across Iran with franchises in Iraq, the Emirates, Malaysia, Kuwait, Syria, Thailand, UK, Venezuela and Turkey.

Ice Pack
No. 249, next to Saderat Bank, opposite Ettehad St., after Tehranpars intersection, Damavand Ave., Tehran, Iran.
Tel: +98 (21) 77341842

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Images of Masjid-e-Jamkaran Qom

2010-11-22T07:02:00.000+03:30

Enjoy these photographs of Masjid-e-Jamkaran in the holy city of Qom, Iran.

The Masjid draws pilgrims from all parts of Iran as well as other countries.

The Masjid was built in the year 393 AH (1003 by the Gregorian calendar) by Hassan Bin Maslah by the order of Imam Madi (A.S), the Twelfth Imam of the Shia Isna Ashari (translated as followers of the Twelve Imams) Muslims.

The mosque is an architectural masterpiece which celebrates Persian art in every corner.

The mosque is a fifteen minute drive from Qom and the best way to reach the mosque is to take a taxi from outside the Roza-e-Masooma-e-Qum complex.

Images by Mariam Noronha.

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Iran Weather Forecasts

2010-11-01T12:10:00.000+03:30

A useful source of detailed weather information in English for Iran is the Iran Meteorological Organization's website

The site has forecasts for Iran's cities, satellite images, weather for road journeys and climate statistics.

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Jameh Mosques

2010-10-24T12:05:00.000+03:30

مسجد جامع

The most important mosque in a town or city in Iran is called the Jameh or Friday mosque (masjed-e jameh).

People gather for prayers here at noon on Fridays and to listen to the Friday sermon.

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Caspian Hostel

2010-09-28T06:43:00.000+03:30

Brand new hostel (villa) in a peaceful location 15km from Mahmud Abad in Caspian Sea. (Less than 4 hours drive from Tehran).

Rustic design, fully furnished, balcony, barbeque, private garden, wooden fireplace.

500 meters from the beach and near 3 national parks (Noor, Sisangan and Chamestan).

Available recreational facilities: ATV, Bicycle Round trip transportation from Tehran is also available.

Contact Dave: caspianhostel[at]gmail[dot]com

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Weather in Esfahan

2010-08-28T12:12:00.000+04:30

At this time of year Esfahan is slightly cooler than the capital Tehran. There is very little rainfall as a rule in August. Most rain occurs in the winter months of December and January.

You must have a browser that supports iframes to view the BBC weather forecast

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Popularity of Persian Calligraphy

2010-07-25T07:34:00.000+04:30

Persian calligraphy is increasingly popular in tattoos and designs for clothing, jewelry and other fashion accessories.

In ancient Persian tradition calligraphy of poetic phrases was often combined with graphic motifs.

A number of tattoo parlors in the west specialize in both Persian and Arabic script and there are also Facebook groups for fans of the art. Persian calligraphy now rivals Chinese and Japanese characters in popularity with people wanting a graphic and meaningful tattoo.

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Looking Down on Tehran

2010-06-30T08:16:00.000+04:30

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Buying A Persian Carpet

2010-05-31T10:28:00.001+04:30

Persian Carpets

Persian carpets are produced in seven main cities in Iran: Tabriz, Mashhad, Qom, Kashan, Nain, Esfahan and Kerman.

Carpets make for excellent souvenirs from any trip to the country.

This month we offer our readers advice on buying and maintaining a Persian carpet.

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Iran Slideshow

2010-04-30T12:50:00.003+04:30

See a slideshow of Iran to quickly and easily navigate to a blog entry on Iran from IranVisitor

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People You Think You Know

2010-03-02T03:46:00.003+03:30

I am making a documentary movie about Iran, its culture and it's relationship to the West through an intimate portrait of one Iranian family in the diaspora.

You can watch web episodes I've made here and learn more about my goals from my fundraising page here.

It would be wonderful if you could help me spread the word about my fundraising drive in any way you can, Alborz Kamalizad

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Books on Iran Slideshow

2010-02-20T16:28:00.003+03:30

See a slideshow of recommended books on Iran, including books on Iranian history, culture, Tehran and travel.

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Imam Khomeini Airport Arrivals & Departures

2010-02-12T17:34:00.003+03:30

IKA opened in 2004 and now almost all international flights have been transferred here from the old Mehrabad Airport in downtown Tehran, which still is the main domestic flight hub.

Aeroflot, Ariana, Emirates, Etihad, Gulf Air, Lufthansa, Qatar Airways and Turkish Airways are some of the major international airlines flying into IKA.

IKA is situated about 30km south of Tehran on the highway to Qom. With no public transport system yet in place, the only way to get there is by private taxi (120,000 Rials+, 1hr, Tel.: 021 88738855)

There are banks in the airport to change your currency into rials.

Flight information is provided by FlightStats, and is subject to the FlightStats Terms of Use.

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Baseej

2010-01-30T19:52:00.002+03:30

The Baseej or Basij means "Mobilization" and is volunteer militia founded by Ayatollah Khomeini in 1979.

Their numbers are open to debate and range from around 400,000 to over a million strong. The Baseej have a presence in most large Iranian cities and towns. Becoming a member of the paramilitary force allows for various state benefits including exemption from military service and possibly a guaranteed spot at a college or university.

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Yazd Meybod Fort

2009-12-20T12:08:00.004+03:30

One of the most evocative towns in Iran, Yazd is also one of the oldest. The town has historic connections with Zoroastrianism (Mazdaism).

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Farsi & Dari

2009-11-24T12:30:00.004+03:30

This "cartogram" map from Worldmapper shows the number of Farsi and Dari speakers in the world.

The Farsi and Dari languages are spoken by around 30 million people. Farsi is the local name for the Persian language in Iran and Dari for the language in Afghanistan. The two dialects differ in the way that say British and American English do - accent and some vocabulary items.

Click on the map to enlarge it.

© Copyright 2009 SASI Group (University of Sheffield)

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Iran Population Map

2009-10-08T05:07:00.004+03:30

These new "cartogram" maps from Worldmapper graphically show the population density of Iran.

The largest bulge is around the capital Iran. The gray areas represent areas of low population density on the north of Iran and south east of the country.

The total population of Iran was estimated in 2008 at 65,875,224.

Click on the map to enlarge it.

© Copyright 2009 SASI Group (University of Sheffield)

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Iranian Weddings

2009-09-30T15:35:00.002+03:30

Marriages in Iran consist of two parts: Aghd - the civil registration of a union and Jashn-e Aroosi the celebratory nuptials of the wedding reception and party.

As in other countries the wedding car is decorated with flowers as the couple drive off to their new life.

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Azadi Grand Hotel

2009-08-29T19:52:00.004+04:30

The Azadi Grand Hotel in north Tehran is one of the capital's most luxurious hotels, but distant from most of the sights in Tehran except for the International Trade Fair Ground and the airport. The hotel used to be the Hyatt Hotel in a previous existence in the late 1970s, when it was first built.

Azadi Grand Hotel
Dr. Chamran Expressway - Evin Cross Road
Tel : +98 21 207 3021/9

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Tehran Weather

2009-07-18T14:09:00.002+04:30

July and August are the hottest months in Tehran with temperatures reaching 40 degrees Centigrade.

The weather in Tehran is very dry at this time with little rainfall.

You must have a browser that supports iframes to view the BBC weather forecast

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University of Tehran

2009-06-20T12:06:00.004+04:30

The University of Tehran is the leading university in Iran and one of the top universities in the Middle East. Founded in 1934, the University of Tehran has twenty faculties, with around 32,000 students and 1500 teaching staff.

The student body has a majority of female students and over 300 students from overseas.

The main campus is situated south of Laleh Park east of the north south Kargar Avenue. Since the Islamic Revolution of 1979, the University of Tehran has been the site of Tehran's Friday prayers.

Image by Zereshk

University of Tehran (English page)
Central Administration of University of Tehran
16 Azar Street
Enghelab Ave
Tehran
Iran
Tel: 9821 61113358

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Map of Tehran

2009-06-17T20:17:00.003+04:30

Valiasr Avenue is a main north-south road in central Tehran. Tehran University is west of Valiasr Avenue with Amir Kabir University to the east. The main subway station on Valiasr Avenue is Majlis where it intersects Imam Khomeini Street. Tir Square is to the north west.

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Iran Provinces

2009-06-15T11:27:00.003+04:30

Iran has 30 provinces: Ardabil, Azarbayjan-e Gharbi, Azarbayjan-e Sharqi, Bushehr, Chahar Mahall va Bakhtiari, Esfahan, Fars, Gilan, Golestan, Hamadan, Hormozgan, Ilam, Kerman, Kermanshah, Khorasan-e Jonubi, Khorasan-e Razavi, Khorasan-e Shomali, Khuzestan, Kohgiluyeh va Buyer Ahmad, Kordestan, Lorestan, Markazi, Mazandaran, Qazvin, Qom, Semnan, Sistan va Baluchestan, Tehran, Yazd and Zanjan.

Sistan va (and) Baluchestan is the largest province by area. Gilan on the Caspian Sea coast is the smallest province by area.

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Jameh Mosque Qazvin

2009-05-24T08:46:00.002+04:30

The Jameh Mosque in Qazvin, west of Tehran, is popular place to gather.

Reputedly constructed over a Zoroastrian fire temple, the historic Jameh Mosque has a blue dome and some striking interior relief calligraphy.

Qazvin is west of Tehran on the A01 highway.
There are trains and frequent buses making the two and a half hour journey to Qazvin from the capital.

© Will Yong

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Qazvin Imamzadeh Hossein

2009-04-19T13:14:00.004+04:30

Known for its carpets, Qazvin is west of Tehran on the A01 highway.

The Imamzadeh Hossein shrine (below) is a shrine commemorating Hossein, a son of Imam Reza (765-818; the seventh descendant of the prophet Muhammad) and dates from the 16th century.

The shrine is known for its beautiful geometrical tiles and is set in a courtyard with a fountain.

There are trains and frequent buses making the two and a half hour journey to Qazvin from Tehran.

© Will Yong

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The Remaking of Iran Exhibition

2009-03-28T08:48:00.005+04:30

Shah 'Abbas - The Remaking of Iran Exhibition is currently showing at the British Museum in London until June 14, 2009.

The exhibition focuses on 17th century Iran during the reign of Shah 'Abbas I (1587–1629).

Long associated with his new capital city at Isfahan, the reign of Shah 'Abbas saw a period of peace and increased trade and prosperity.

The objects on display, many seen outside Iran for the first time, include calligraphy, carpets, ceramics, Qur'ans, mosque lamps, paintings and silks.

The British Museum also has a permanent collection of Persian art.

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Hosein Kaffash

2009-02-01T21:41:00.001+03:30

I

The street was already clear from yesterday’s snow though patches still reflected luminous white from the bare earth of the mountainside. The brushes, tins, knives and rubber heels in Hosein’s wooden cart rattled as its wheels stuttered over the gravel left behind from the salt trucks. A Peykan taxi trundled past in low gear, pulling its thick steel carcass up the hill without complaint like a passive mule. Snow had again not been forthcoming this year, the extended autumn was proving as dry and bright as the summer. Though his grandfather’s orchard in the north had been sold long ago, out of habit, Hosein wondered whether the mild winter would snap suddenly and decisively like the year before and throttle the unripe fruit of the orange trees.

Up ahead, a four-wheel drive attempted a handbrake turn but could only manage a disappointing two metre skid, grinding the gravel into the unrelenting asphalt with a scrape. The gleaming hulk sped away and Hosein could again hear the rattle which attended the wheels of his hand-built cart. He neared the corner where the street turned back on itself and climbed further up the mountainside. He stopped and felt a breeze, chilled by the snowy peaks above, waft down and touch the light sweat on his forehead. He closed his eyes, breathed, and frigid air stung a little on the inside of his sinuses. “Allah-e Shokr”, he whispered to himself, moved by the alternate sensations of heat from the pale winter sunlight and the ripples of cold in the air.

On the last Friday of every month, Hosein the Kaffash brought his work up to this pleasant part of town, perched high on the Tochal foothills, detached from the polluted inner-city air. The neighbourhood knew him well enough by now for many of the residents of the forty or so low-rise apartment buildings to keep any shoes in need of repair at home, anticipating his next visit, rather than carry them to Tajrish Square where two other cobblers plied their trade on the steps by the bank.

Hosein turned and saw that his son had fallen some way behind. “Ali-jaan, come to daddy, come on!” At his father’s call Ali broke into a staccato run. Thick layers of clothing under his puffer jacket made it difficult for his arms to swing and he held them out stiffly to his sides, the yellow woollen bobble on his winter hat bounced with each tiny stride. Now nearly seven years old, Ali was old enough to accompany his father on his Friday rounds, a convenience which gave father and son their only prolonged contact during the week and Mariam some respite at home, though for this Hosein sacrificed his day of rest.

Hosein the kaffash knelt down in front of his son from whose mouth steam-laden breath was pumping out in short gusts. His wide, pebble-black eyes blinked twice and opened to their widest and the boy smiled as Hosein pulled off his hat, dried off his hot brow with a gloved hand and ruffled his son’s matted hair.

II

Ali stood mutely observing a mean-looking black and white tomcat while his father climbed the steps of another of the three-storey blocks. The cat pleaded at regular intervals with a persistent howl issuing from the depths of unfulfilled hunger and lust. A middle-aged woman with no headscarf appeared at a second floor window to toss down a plastic bag of chicken bones. The bones half spilled onto the paving stones and the sound of the mesh screen sliding shut scratched the prevailing hush. Hosein rang the first floor buzzer and could hear the cat pawing at the plastic bag for a few seconds before the click of the intercom and a woman’s voice.

“Yes?”

“Good morning miss, I’m the kaffash. If you have any shoes to shine or repairs for me I’m at your service.”

“Oh, I see…. Let me ask my husband… Mehrdad!”

Another click and the intercom fell silent. Hosein rang the second and third floor buzzers but no answer came to disturb the greedy, hollow sound of the cat’s hard teeth on bare bones. Hosein shifted his cart into a bright triangle which the sun threw over the steps up to the entrance. From it he withdrew a tattered square of coarsely woven stuff cut from the thick material of a motorcycle saddlebag which he placed on the first step where he would sit. A man he recognised from previous visits emerged wearing a long overcoat over a casual t-shirt carrying a pair of black leather shoes in one hand.

“Salaam Agha, I’m sorry but it’s just these today. You repaired them the last time you were here, may your hands not hurt! If you could just shine them for me and leave them inside the front door when you finish.”

He handed the shoes down from his place on the landing and opened his wallet. He drew out a crisp two thousand toman note and both men’s eyes held the folded blue rectangle for a shared moment from opposite sides of a great divide.

“It has no value, I’m at your service.” Hosein offered his ta’arof, the ritual refusal to be payed, but the money was already in his hand. The shoes had lost little of the shine that Hosein himself had put on them a month before and with every stroke of his brush he fought off the sense that he was in league with the mendicant accordian players and street sweepers who rang the same doorbells for small change. His eyes narrowed on the smudged outline of his own face which was beginning to emerge on the shoe in his blackened hand.

The door of the next block opened and an amply-proportioned female form emerged, draped in a pale grey floral print chador. She edged sideways to plant her feet on the first step, directly opposite where Hosein was sitting, one hand holding the moulded concrete bannister and the other cradling a tray against her bosom.

“Ali, go and help the lady. Quick!”

Without a word, the boy ran to the bottom of the steps, slipping and saving himself from a fall with both his hands. He beat his gloves free of the still fresh snow.

“Careful now, Ali.” Hosein observed the handover with as much care as the woman and young Ali executed it. “May your hands not hurt, you’ve made so much effort, thank you ma’am. Say thank you Ali,” to which Ali responded with a straightforward, “merci.”

“Oh, it’s nothing, I’m so ashamed,” the woman replied with a self-deprecating chuckle. She had a round face and a turned up nose. With her arms concealed under her grey chador she looked comically like an owl. “I’ll ask my grandson if he has any work for you,” she said.

Calling on Imam Ali for strength, the old woman hauled herself back up the steps with the same determined effort with which she had descended. Hosein rested the tray on his wooden cart and as father and son shared the unfamiliar tasting food, the relentless mewing of the vagrant black and white cat began once again. Hosein tossed him a scrap which did nothing to silence him.

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Ashura 2009

2009-01-09T02:27:00.001+03:30

Short Cuts: Ta'arof

2009-01-09T02:06:00.001+03:30

The two men ordered their kebabs and the waiter motioned for them to sit at a simple formica table. The tiny kebab restaurant was busy this evening on the eve of Eid-e Ghadir.

Outside the first snow of the year was falling gently on the glossy black streets. One of the men adjusted the position of a steel frame chair and sat. It was a tactical slip which allowed his friend to open the play in a classic ta’arof gambit.

“Right, so why don’t I go next door and get us some fresh juice, what’ll you have?”

Taken by surprise, the seated man had no option but to come back at his friend with a rather cliched rejoinder, “thank you sir, but please be my guest.” His predictably vain attempt to get up and beat his opponent to the door was stopped by his friend’s outstretched arm.

“Come now, I won’t hear of it, let me this time, melon? pomegranate? These are on me,” the standing man said as he turned and made for the exit. Perhaps his move for the door was a fraction of a second premature.

“Ok, ok,” the seated man replied, seeing that the only way to keep his chances alive now was to feign surrender and come back with a different approach, “I’ll come with you, I can’t decide what I want until I see what they have.”

The two exited the restaurant together. Both men fingering their wallets.

(c) William Yong

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Recycling in Tehran

2009-01-02T08:01:00.002+03:30

Collecting recyclable materials in Tehran for money is undertaken by a small army of economic migrants from Iran's outlying regions and neighbouring nations such as Afghanistan.

Garbage in Tehran amounts to approximately 70% of the total waste produced in Iran. Plastic accounted for over 9% of this total in 2003 and is growing as a percentage of the whole. 2,355,740 tons of solid waste were produced in the capital in 2003, with much of it dumped in the Kahrizak landfill.

© Iran Visitor

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Kermanshah

2008-12-21T12:42:00.001+03:30

Kermanshah is the capital of Kermanshah Province. The city of Kermanshah is situated 525km west from Tehran about 120 km from the Iraq border.

The main places of interest in the province are the historic gardens of Taq-e Bostan and the bas relief carvings at Bisotun.

The Greek hero, Hercules, is carved into the rock at Bisotun and is believed to date from 148BC and the Seleucid dynasty. Earlier are the Bisotun Inscription and a bas relief of Darius.

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Hosseinieh

2008-12-14T09:53:00.001+03:30

Hosseinieh are like religious clubs.

They get especially packed during the Ashura festival when men pack in to pound their chests while listening to intense, repetitive music.

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Tehran Joob

2008-11-26T07:35:00.003+03:30

Water which flows from the Alborz Mountains runs through Tehran in a network of joob, which are deep gutters that line most north-south running streets. Plenty of trash gets dumped in on the way and they often get blocked.

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Thursday Night at the Bakery

2008-10-22T20:12:00.001+03:30

I’m sitting on the step in the last of the evening light, waiting in a queue of around five. It’s mostly men in the evenings, wives will be at home preparing dinner. It’s also the first day of the weekend, so tonight, demand for fresh “naan sangak” - a wholesome flat bread cooked on hot pebbles - is high.

Little brother scoots past my knees carrying a bundle of separated newspaper pages, ready for customers to grab to wrap their hot bread. The family business starts from the littlest one up on this Thursday evening shift. Inside, a boy not much older retrieves the cooked bread on a spatula as it appears on the revolving stone plate which carries them through the oven. The lad’s stout frame suggests he’s the older brother of the chubby little newspaper boy. His advantage in years puts him one step closer to the production end of the family business.

At peak times you won’t find a single Tehran bakery without waiting customers spilling into the street outside. Mass-produced bread is available at supermarkets but the reaction at home when you bring back a still-warm armful from the local bakers’ speaks of a link between man and his staple food that plastic packaging somehow comes between.

There’s a dull clang of wood on metal as the twenty-year-old baker’s apprentice drops the long palette handle into its holder. Even before it stops rattling his hands are in the aluminium trough to grab another slick, wet pat of dough. He’s the hard-running fly-half of the operation, the living link between the raw stuff and the furnace. If he wants to run his own bakery one day he’s got to serve his time at the oven door.

While the midfield dynamo continues to hum, the master baker’s assured eyes are on the doorway, watching the fading light of the evening. He’s transferring the last of the dough from the big aluminium mixer to the trough for the apprentice to work with. Pulling out a larger lump of the gloopy raw stuff than I think two hands can handle, I worry that the dough which is lolling over and around his wrists, is going to fall onto the floor. But his hands know the consistency of the stuff of his trade better than that. They guide the lump into the half-empty trough and it falls in with a slap.

The lanky understudy with his Roman nose watches as the master baker gives his last orders and departs. I imagine the young man’s thoughts are on the possibilities of the weekend as he continues to eye the doorway with his hands in the dough.

“How many do you want?” the apprentice asks a youth standing in line.

“Seven,” the boy answers. He’s no more than a teenager but the stains on his clothes, tanned neck and arms and world-weary expression suggest he’s already spent more than a little time working to pay his keep. Perhaps he’s one of the hundreds of young men who dig around in trash cans to collect recyclable materials for cash.

“You can have seven ‘nun-e salavati,’” the apprentice motions to the pile of bread kept aside for those who don’t have the money to pay.

“No,” the boy answers stoically.

“Take them, they’re fresh,” the apprentice insists. According to Iran’s tradition of ta’arof a genuine offer is never made only once.

But with an upward nod of the head which Iranians employ to express an outright objection, the pauper boy insists the issue is closed. He turns his back and rejoins the rest of the customers waiting in line.

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Milad Telecommunications Tower

2008-10-10T18:08:00.003+03:30

The Milad Telecommunications Tower (Borj-e Milad) opened this week in Tehran. At 435m, the tower is the 4th largest in the world.

Designed by architect, Dr. Mohammad Reza Hafezi, the tower is part of the new Tehran International Trade and Convention Center. The tower has restaurants at the top with amazing views of Tehran below.

The Milad Tower is designed to withstand earthquakes of 7.5 on the Richter scale.

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South Khorasan Province

2008-09-12T12:20:00.004+04:30

South Khorasan Province is located in the extreme east of Iran bordering Afghanistan. The main towns of the province are: the provincial capital Birjand, Ferdows and Gonabad.

The previous province of Khorasan was the largest province of Iran until it was divided in 2004 into North Khorasan, South Khorasan and Ravazi Khorasan.

Birjand has a population of approximately 160,000 inhabitants and Birjand Airport has flights to Tehran and Mashhad.

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Iran Collection British Museum

2008-08-21T20:02:00.005+04:30

The British Museum in London has some of the finest pieces of ancient Persian art outside of the National Museum in Tehran.

Many of the pieces were excavated by Robert Gordon from Persepolis in the early 19th century.

The citadel of Persepolis was constructed by Darius I around 500 BCE and the iconography of the sculpures and relief works included influences from Egypt, Greece and Mesopotamia. Persepolis was destroyed by the Macedonian invader Alexander in 330 BCE.

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Iran-Japan Relations

2008-07-17T08:09:00.004+04:30

When President Khatami visited Tokyo in 2000, he was the first Iranian leader to visit Japan since King Reza Shah Pahlavi in 1958. At the time, he and the Japanese premier, Mr Mori, made plans for friendly relations and greater economic cooperation.

According to official Iranian statistics, the volume of bilateral trade between Japan and Iran reached US$14.3 billion in 2007 and this is expected to increase to US$20 billionin 2008 as a result of rising oil prices.

At the people-to-people level, things look positive. There are 5,227 Iranians officially registered as living in Japan and around 300 Iranian students. According to Ambassador Araqchi, academic exchanges between the two countries 'play a vital role for further deepening of our relations.' Culturally, there has also been some interesting collaboration in areas such as cinema - for instance, the 2003 movie 'Kaze no Jutan' (The Wind Carpet).

Japan is also active in Iran holding events such as Noh theater performances and recently hosting a ceremony at its embassy in Tehran at which it presented equipment for a charitable project, for the benefit of children with intellectual disabilities.

Ambassador Araqchi is optimistic for the future, declaring: 'We would like to expand our regional and international cooperation with Japan. At the same time, we are looking forward to seeing further expansion of economic, technological and cultural cooperation with our Japanese partners.'

This is a shortened version of a longer article on J@panInc

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Ardabil Province

2008-06-18T06:16:00.002+04:30

Ardabil (also spelled Ardebil) Province is located in the north west corner of Iran, bordering Azerbaijan and the Caspian Sea. The city of Ardabil is the capital of the province.

Being cooler than the rest of the country, Ardabil attracts many tourists especially in the hot summer months.

There are flights from Tehran and Tabriz to Ardabil Airport, 11km from downtown Ardabil. There are buses from Ardabil to Tehran, Tabriz (4 hours), Qazvin (7 hours) and Rasht (4 hours).

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Sistan and Baluchestan Province

2008-05-21T20:12:00.005+04:30

Sistan and Baluchestan is the largest of Iran's thirty provinces by area. Sistan is the area to the north and Baluchestan lies to the south bordering Pakistan.

The province as a whole has a population of over 4 million people and is one of the driest and poorest areas of the country. Zahedan, with over half a million inhabitants, is the provincial capital and it is possible to pick up visas here for both neighboring Pakistan and India.

Zabol (pop. 132,000) is an exotic and dangerous border town with Afghanistan to the north of Zahedan.

There are flights to both Zahedan (daily) and Zabol (weekly) from Tehran. There are shared taxis (savaris) from Zahedan to Zabol.

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Baluchestan and Iran

2008-04-08T22:18:00.003+04:30

IranVisitor recently took a trip to Baluchestan is a pretty traditional place compared to Tehran. Wherever we were received as guests women and men were strictly separated. I attended a wedding without even seeing the bride.

When I saw women and girls in the streets they were often wearing black chadors loosely draped over outfits like these. But the black covering never fully hid the bright colours beneath. It was just one of so many ways that Baluchestan reminded me of India and showed me more clearly than ever that Iran is a diverse country and is essentially nothing without this diversity.

Baluchis are not separatists by any means. The Baluchi people are a relatively new ethnic group and accept their position sandwiched between the two great civilisations of Iran and India. Baluchis from Pakistan seem to have no problem crossing the border into Iran where they find plenty of work and higher wages. Unfortunately, some of the lawlessness of Pakistan also makes it over to Iran and there have been some high profile kidnappings of foreign tourists in the area and a bomb attack on Iranian soldiers in Zahedan.

More on Baluchestan soon...

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National Museum of Iran Tehran

2008-03-26T07:31:00.003+04:30

The National Museum of Iran in central Tehran is not to be missed on any visit to the capital.

The original building of the museum, which houses the pre-Islamic exhibits dates from the 1930s and was designed by French architect, Andre Godard.

Building 1 of the museum houses artifacts ranging from Iran's prehistoric past to the Elamite, Achaemenid and Parthian periods.

Image © Camille-Helene Lemouchoux & IranVisitor.com

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Baseej Parades for 22 Bahman (11 February)

2008-02-19T11:24:00.002+03:30

Rally to mark the 29th anniversary of the 1979 revolution.

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Taking Pictures in Tehran

2008-02-19T10:59:00.003+03:30

The rallies to mark the anniversary of the 1979 revolution are an uncomfortable mix of festive gaiety and political posturing. Walking down "Revolution Street" towards "Freedom Square" there were people begging to have their photos taken. Every time I stopped to point my camera, passing groups would shout for me to look. Kids in camouflage gear and pro-Palestinian check scarves puffed out their chests and waved their flags more vigorously. At one point a group of about twenty-five men all lined up neatly and patiently for me. Best of all, one middle-aged lady sitting by the side of the road looked up at me as I passed – her eyes just begging me to take her picture. She smiled a sweet smile, beaming innocently and incongruously over a poster showing the frankly lascivious grin of Ayatollah Khamenei and a black and white "death to America" placard.

Iran's biggest show of nationalist pride is actually one of the easiest times for a photographer (foreign or otherwise) to take people's photographs. With the whole day almost entirely devoted to showing defiance against foreign meddling, the theory is, the further this message travels the better. And since "the enemy" speaks English, it makes sense to translate the printed material.

The national psyche has been so long moulded by opposition and Iran's pariah status in the western world that I even sensed a degree of knowing self-parody. Chanting slogans against America, Israel and, to a lesser extent, Britain has taken on the air of a national pastime. The role of 22 Bahman (11 February) as a political as a national day of rememberance has at least been equalled by its new role as a street festival – a kind of super-politicized Carnaval. There was even a tent by the side of the road giving kids the opportunity to throw darts at a crude mockup of Uncle Sam. A geopolitical fairground game. The host was wearing a comically-tall stars and stripes top hat.

At any other time, taking pictures in Iran can be sensitive to say the least. And it’s hard to put your finger on why. Once I was taking a picture of bus. A normal city commuter bus. A plain clothed man, no uniform, no ID approached me and asked me if I had permission to take pictures. I said that we were in a public place and there was no need for permission. He assured me that I was wrong. After some time talking I think I got to the bottom of it. He told me that many foreigners come to Iran and take pictures of things to present Iran in an unfavourable light. I asked him what about the good things in Iran? What if foreigners want to show Iran in a good light? I had taken my picture and he was getting bored so we parted without reaching a conclusion.

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2008-01-21T11:02:00.003+03:30

Listen to the sound of Tazieh

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God mourns for the Imams?

2008-01-21T10:54:00.000+03:30

“Faith in the imams cures cancer and makes the lame walk… I’ve seen it with my own eyes, you’ve all seen it too”

The little man with the microphone. Unshaven, wearing a faded mismatched suit. Reminded me of snake oil sellers in Western movies. Do Iranians really hold beliefs so out of step with the given scientific mindset of the times? This was a speaker to the masses. He appeared to know his audience, and the 1000 toman notes were flowing.

From what I can gather, the folk legends surrounding the Imams arise from more sources than one. There is the history. Events of the time are well documented and acknowledged also by Sunnis but this only provides the barest framework. Woven into the history are parables of the strength of Abol Fazl, the moral uprightness of Hossein, the justice of Ali – superhuman qualities all, but imams are not messengers of God and nor are they miracle workers. This is one essential aspect of Shiism which suggests roots in something other than Islam.

Maybe the key can be found in the stories of pre-Islamic heroes, Rostam and Siavash. Stories which are, at heart, legends from Zoroastrian times handed down through Ferdosi’s Shahnameh. Perhaps the habit of eulogizing heroes simply got transferred. Another sign of non-Islamic influence is the imagery – fantasy portraits of the Imams, full-bearded but with glowing almond eyes, almost feminine – an unquestionably Persian beauty.

“the earth, the heavenly sphere, time itself are mourning for the Imam. Even He, yes HE is mourning for the Imam with all his angels”

The little man continued his amplified lament, bent forward, with knees bent and free hand appealing to the sky, the ground, his heart, the crowd. God mourns for the Imams? In Christianity God allowed his son to die on the cross but in Shiite Islam he weeps for Hossein. The Imams are not prophets, not messengers of God but heroes, and their powers are still felt in everyday life. Ronaldinho may belong to Jesus but Iranian weightlifter Rezazadeh pledges allegiance to Abol Fazl on his chest. The exclamation “Ya Ali!” is heard whenever an Iranian faces an out of the ordinary situation and needs help – our equivalent would be “God help me!” but critically, the Shiite version doesn’t appeal to a God but a long dead mortal.

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Parsi Cola

2008-01-06T17:00:00.000+03:30

The name “Pars” is an expression of Iranian national pride which goes a long way back in history. The province of “Pars” (now “Fars”, capital Shiraz) was the centre of Iranian civilization during the time of Cyrus the Great. The name “Persepolis” comes from the Greek rendering, “Persis”. The name of Iran’s language, “Farsi”, also derives from the same – the change to “F” came after the Arab invasion and reflects the lack of a “P” sound in Arabic.

Now, “Pars Online” is Iran’s number one internet provider – one arm of the business empire of former President Akbar Hashemi Rafsanjani no less. The “Peugot Pars” is an automobile based on the old Peugot 405 which is assembled in Iran. Parsa is a popular boys’ name, Parisa for girls, and Parsi Cola is a home grown soft drinks brand which still does the rounds in reusable bottles all over the country.

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2007-12-22T04:07:00.000+03:30

Cave of the Martyrs

2007-12-21T04:16:00.000+03:30

For the last few months I've been wondering what the green halogen lights leading up the mountainside were for. Alien landing site? Late night mining operations? There was nothing obvious from down below but one day I noticed a new street sign pointing up the hill. The white on brown colour scheme denoting something of cultural interest.

A thin layer of crisp snow lay on the ground the morning I decided to make my way up. I followed the icy dirt path in unsuitable shoes. Paw tracks showed me that the local strays had been up and down before dawn. A long, white goods container had been deposited on a level area half way up. Green-painted frame borders with "Kahf al-Shohada" (Cave of the Martyrs), brushed on in vivid blood-red spoke of the grief-fuelled nationalism so fundamental to current power structures. Open air martyr-worship in a country where the politico-religious establishment has a strict monopoly on public expression.

Further up was a slightly wider but equally anticlimatic plateau. More red, white and green. Iranian flags, makeshift spotlighting planted in the ground at incongruous angles. I heard the creak of a hinge and shuffling behind me and a lanky, young Basij boy, crewcut, unshaven, with regulation Palestinian check scarf, emerged from apparently nowhere. An inner voice told me my presence was not wanted. I swung my camera behind my arm offered a guilt-ridden "good morning." Political repression clearly having left its mark on my conscience.

The great irony being that though this makeshift monument was intended as a form of public relations, the Basij themselves would be exceedingly sensitive to anyone here taking pictures of it for wider consumption. But the earnest young lad just returned my greeting and went on his way and he was safely out of sight before I ventured a look in the direction from where he had appeared. A workmanlike iron gate, banners with religious slogans hanging limp either side and above it. An entrance to a cell adapted from a natural cave in the mountainside.

Inside, fading bouquets, petals strewn over three stone slabs laid on the ground. Graves of fallen heroes? An ascetic hermit's cell set aside for solitary mourning and devoted tears.

A few metres away, a low semicircle of sandbags, arranged like a machine-gun bunker, marked off the dead-end path. It guarded a crudely hung nylon banner. On it, a photograph showing Ayatollah Ali Khamenei, standing in reflective mood at the entrance to that very cave.

My cousin later told me of how his father rose early one morning for a mountain walk and witnessed the Supreme Leader emerging from "Kahf al-Shohada" under the cover of the half-light. No fanfare, minimal entourage, perhaps a very personal pilgrimage - but not without leaving photographic evidence to establish the site's status in Basij mythology.

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Tehran Skyline

2007-12-21T01:11:00.000+03:30

You get some pretty stunning views out over the city from "Baam-e Tehran" (Roof of Tehran) especially at dawn and sunset. From here you also get a good perspective on how breathable the city air is on any given day - mountains visible in the south is a sign that the smog is relatively thin.

Same view, this time with thick, early morning cloud (not smog) smothering the city like a quilt.

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Imam Khomeini Airport (IKA)

2007-12-21T00:06:00.000+03:30

Plans to build IKA existed before 1979 but were put on hold after the Islamic revolution. The airport was eventually opened in 2004 and now almost all international flights have been transferred here from the old Mehrabad Airport in central Tehran.

IKA is situated about 30km south of the city on the road to Qom. With no public transport system yet in place, the only way to get there is by private taxi (120,000 Rials, 1hr, Tel.: 021 88738855)

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Basij Week

2007-12-17T11:34:00.001+03:30

This poster is publicising Basij Week which I think has just ended. You may have heard something about the Basij in the news where you are. Human Rights Watch calls them a "parallel organisation" which pretty well sums up their relationship with the government - they're not under direct control but they provide a loyal pillar of support for it in times of need.

In the past this has involved getting heavy with student protests and enforcing codes of conduct and dress in public places. I remember last year seeing a run-in between a group of Basijis and some young men out for a walk in the mountains. The boys were wearing tight clothes and "fashionable" beards that the Basijis found objectionable and they tried to "arrest" them. I didn't stay to find out what happened.

(NB. The Basij are not responsible for the current minor crackdown on "un-Islamic" dress which is going on around Tehran. Those guys are from Ershad (The Council for Islamic Guidance) which is a full government body. Ershad patrols get real police cars and have much more convincing uniforms.)

One way in which the Basiji make themselves conspicuous is on big group outings. I occasionally see them on the way to or from the mountains near wear I live. Here's a clandestine shot of some women Basiji's taken from inside a bus.

They were part of a coachload of female members all-wearing white and blue checked scarves which signify their support for the Palestinians. At the head of the procession there will often be a standard-bearer carrying a green flag addressing Imam Hossein - the most important of the Shia martyrs. Male groups often chant military-style marching slogans. This all harks back to the time when Basij members provided much of the raw manpower required to kick the Iraqis out of cities like Khorramshahr - a name which still evokes bitter yet proud memories of a time when Iran really was united against a common enemy.

The Basij are still a major part of Iranian society, but I can't help but think they're becoming more and more anachronistic as the Iraq war recedes further into the past. Though scars are still fresh for veterans and especially the families of the shohada (martyrs), it's getting harder now to convince Iranians that they are still at war.

Iranian government PR is something of a one-trick pony. Replay footage of the Iran-Iraq war and try to make it feel current by blurring it into recent images of dying Gazans. All the patriotically-inspiring if broadcast at half time during international football matches. But the war footage is looking more and more dated now and superimposing Ayatollah Khamenei over pictures of volunteers who never came back just doesn't ring true. The Palestinian conflict is just too far away to evoke the same power of conviction.

With 50% of Iranians just too young to really remember the war, what the Iranian government needs now is a cause. A truly Iranian sacrifice to once again give the Basij a feeling that their world view - a country under threat and therefore in need of repressive conservatism - is correct. And just the possibility (let's not even consider the actuality) of an attack by the U.S. on Iranian soil is just the ticket.

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BBQ Corn - Vali Asr

2007-12-10T07:40:00.001+03:30

On a quiet weekday evening there isn't really much going on in the streets of Tehran. Not even on the main strip - Vali-e Asr Street.

But this guy was gamely fanning the flames of his makeshift barbecue and wooing passers-by with the prospect of chargrilled sweetcorn. I'd never had it over coals before, and I still prefer it boiled but it's a fun treat nonetheless especially on a cold autumn evening when you can gather around the hot coals and make small talk with other stray folk.

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Neon signs - Vali Asr

2007-12-04T10:08:00.001+03:30

Don't you just love neon on cold, crisp evenings? The shop below is photocopy and print shop and above it is the phone number of a travel agency consisting only of 7s and 8s.

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Persimmons in Tehran

2007-11-30T10:39:00.000+03:30

Seasonal fruit is a great pleasure. There's so much tasteless imported produce in western (and Japanese) supermarkets that probably not that many people know what the right season for most fruit is. But I think Iran is pretty much self-sufficient when it comes to fruit and veg and I certainly look forward to autumn for several of my favourites - one of which is the persimmon which I've heard called "Sharon fruit" before, "kaki" in Japan and "khormaloo" in Iran. Khorma is the Farsi word for "dates" and aloo means "plum."

I wonder if there's a connection there with the Hindi(?) word for potato - something like the French calling them "pommes de terre." Anyway "khormaloo" is a word loaded with sweet winter connotations for me, the colour itself is enough to warm your hands and the sight of abundant orange fruit weighing down leaveless branches and punctuating the air with their fat jolliness is a sure fire way to put a smile on my face. I think Santa Claus should wear persimmon orange.

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Iran Tube

2007-10-24T06:35:00.000+03:30

Iran Tube is the Iranian equivalent of You Tube.

Members can upload Iran-related videos. Categories include news, sports, travel and popular culture.

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Afshin Ghotbi to Persepolis

2007-09-22T07:08:00.000+03:30

Afshin Ghotbi recently left his job as South Korea's national team assistant coach to return to Iran to coach Iranian giants Persepolis.

Born in Iran, the 43-year-old left his homeland for America in 1977 and went to the 1998 World Cup with the United States and the 2002 and 2006 World Cups with South Korea.

How do you feel about leaving Korea for Iran?
I think I am numb at this moment. I feel excited because of a new challenge and going back to my home country that I haven't seen for 30 years. I also feel sadness because I have so many memories in Korea and so many experiences. It's hard to leave the Korean players as I am always impressed by their mentality and their willingness to learn.

I am excited because I will be head coach of a team and more than that the biggest club in Iran and probably one of the biggest in Asia. They have such history and I remember that as a child. Even when I was a little boy playing in the street, it was always the Reds (Persepolis) against the Blues (Esteghlal).

Read the rest of the Afshin Ghotbi interview here

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Iran on You Tube

2007-08-11T17:53:00.000+03:30

Type in "Iran" on You Tube and coming up No. 1 is this tribute to the country.

The music is by Faramarz Aslani "age ye rooz"

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Iran Reach Asian Cup Second Round

2007-07-18T18:57:00.001+03:30

Iran beat co-hosts Malaysia in Kuala Lumpur to reach the quarterfinals of the Asian Cup as winners of Group C.

Iran scored once in each half to set up a match with South Korea in Kuala Lumpur on Sunday.

Javad Nekounam scored from the penalty spot after 29 minutes and Andranik Teymourian added a fine individual goal ten minutes from time.

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Kashan

2007-06-20T07:44:00.001+03:30

Kashan is known for its beautiful, restored mansions.

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2007-06-08T08:15:00.000+03:30

The still incomplete Milad Tower looks out over one of Tehran's busy public transport junctions.

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Existential graffiti

2007-06-08T00:41:00.000+03:30

Roughly translated:

I write to leave a reminder
So that if I disappear one day
A reminder it will stay

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"Eeenja Iran-e!" (This is Iran!)

2007-06-07T17:31:00.000+03:30

This is an excuse I hear a lot when things are not the way they should be. It's usually employed once a solution to a problem is identified and thoughts turn to putting it into practice.

"But this is Iran!" It's not as easy as that! Sure, that's the problem and this is the best way to get around it but this is Iran. Don't expect things to go so well....

[ followed by any/all of Iran's 3 great national excuses.]

1. First of all people 'don't have culture' here [the Farsi word for this is 'bifarhang' which has no direct translation] they don't know how to behave. You tell them one thing and they do another. They're uneducated and they don't know how to follow rules....

2. And the government doesn't let people get on with their lives. One day one politician launches a policy, the next day he's gone and his replacement wants something else. He gives government jobs to all his cronies and they start filling their pockets and before they've had enough so they can really start work their boss gets the sack and another politician/set of cronies starts all over again!

3. Do you expect the West would let us improve? We were developing a perfectly good democracy until the US stepped in and took away the only decent leader we'd had since Abbas the Great [meaning Mohammad Mossadegh]. And the British are twice as cunning.... Everyone knows George Bush is in Tony Blair's pocket. The mullahs all take their orders from England. It's been like that for centuries and don't think it's going to change soon!

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Uptown Real Estate

2007-05-21T18:20:00.000+03:30

Another pic from the rooftops. This is uptown Tehran. You can make out the slope up to the Alborz mountain range in the background. Basically, if you have the money, you get cleaner air. But Tehran real estate is prohibitively expensive for most Iranians and prices just get higher. And so do the construction projects. Here's a tower block going up on Afriqa Avenue (also known as Jordan) - a fashionable, traffic clogged boulevard flanked by some of the most expensive property in the country.
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Tehran From Above

2007-05-21T18:06:00.000+03:30

On a clear day you can see mountains from everywhere in Tehran.

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More Japanese Visit Iran in 2007

2007-05-11T20:45:00.003+03:30

More and more Japanese are planning to visit Iran in 2007

http://www.presstv.ir/detail.aspx?id=8360&sectionid=351020108

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Nuclear banknote

2007-05-08T11:37:00.000+03:30

Iran's central bank has issued a 50,000 Rial note with a nuclear symbol motif.

The back of the note features a symbol representing electrons circling a nucleus superimposed over the map of Iran. Alongside it is a quote from the Prophet Mohammad which runs, ""if the science exists in this constellation, men from Persia will reach it."

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Giveh: Iranian summer footwear

2007-05-05T17:42:00.000+03:30

Just in time for summer, I've bought myself a pair of giveh, the ideal shoes for the long, hard Tehran summer. Giveh have been made for centuries in many parts of Iran but are most famously from Western Iran, particularly a town called Paveh in Kermanshah Province. The upper is made of strong tightly woven cotton sewn tight to (on my pair) a leather sole. The soles of traditional are made of tightly compacted layers of cotton material stacked from toe to heel. These are less practical since they can lose their shape if wet. Giveh are, however, very much dry weather footwear. Made almost entirely from cotton, there's no need to wear socks and feet breath easily. In fact, in the town where my giveh were made they are referred to as jurab (socks) rather than kafsh (shoes).

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Kermanshah Sheep

2007-04-20T08:10:00.000+03:30

Kermanshah, in central west Iran, is known for its large flocks of sheep.

The sheep have a dual purpose: meat from the animals is consumed locally and much of the surplus is sent to the capital Tehran, sheep wool is also used in the production of the famous geometric-designed carpets of the area.

Kermanshah carpet design is significantly influenced by the culture of the local Kurds and Loris who live in the area.

Sheep and goats number around 81 million in Iran, according to 2005 figures and outnumber the 71 million humans in the country.

Sheep have been a prominent part of the culture of Iran for centuries. A clay image of a sheep which was found at Sarab in Iran dates back to 5000 BCE.

Iran cloned its first sheep in 2006 at Tehran's Royan Institute, though the animal lived only a few minutes, before it could be named.

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Iranian reactions to the movie "300

2007-04-18T15:18:00.000+03:30

Iran's mission to the UN has issued a statement criticising the movie "300", calling it "a thinly-veiled attack on Iranian history." You can read the full text here.

The statement expresses what many Iranians feel about a film that most haven't even seen yet - that misrepresentations of Iran in Western media are something close to a deliberate campaign to present Iran as "a dangerous, bestial force fatally threatening the civilized 'free' world." Government Spokesman, Gholam Hossein Elham, described it as a "cultural intrusion" and said the government interpreted it as "hostile".

I was at a talk held at the Khaneye Honarmandan artists centre where a mercifully edited version of "300" was shown to an audience mainly of university students. Listening to the talk that followed, I was struck with just how intensely felt, yet deeply vulnerable, the Iranian sense of national identity was.

During the screening the mood was light. When King Khashayarshah (Xerxes), a three-metre-tall drag queen, stepped-off his medieval hovercraft, the audience laughed along with Leonidas' raised eyebrow. The anticlimactic end of the Persian attack rhinoceros was another amusing highlight. I noticed a number of other representations that could be interpreted as more serious insults. For me, the ape-like masks of the "eternal warriors" sent a potentially racist message. Furthermore, referring to the Persian army as "slaves" belies the historical truth that the Persian Empire was, unlike Greece, Rome and Egypt, not dependent on slavery.

Iranians live under a persistent irony. Their country's glorious past casts a long shadow over the Iran of modern times. Every Iranian will relate with pride and confidence in the historical facts that the Iranian empire was the first and largest of ancient times and, at its height, stretched from Greece to China. They cite great leaders whose names were suffixed with "the Great" as rulers with enlightened ways who led their people with intelligence and fairness. What's more, every time foreign powers invaded Iran, either the invaders themselves effectively became Iranians (Mongols, Turks) or Iranian culture simply resurfaced in new forms to absorb the invading culture (Arabs).

But far from blaming westerners for not accurately representing an ancient civilisation to which they owe such a huge debt, the Iranians in the audience expressed a deeply self-critical attitude. One woman asked why so few of her countrymen and women attended a protest against a dam-building project which was set to submerge an important archaeological site. Another hit on another very deep vein of dissatisfaction citing many examples of how Iran's pre-Islamic history was being downplayed. Why, for instance, were there no roads named after Kouroush (Cyrus the Great) while so many were named after clerics made famous by the Islamic revolution or Iran-Iraq war. When the current of discussion threatened to break out into open criticism of the government, the chairman had to reign it in. He mentioned that, if the attendees appreciated the facilities provided by the Khane Honarmandan, it would be advisable not to turn it into a base for political debate.

A more lighthearted response to the film comes from Iran's best known satirical cartoonist, Touka Neyestani. You can read the original text here. Thanks to Zeynab's sister for the following translation:

I simply don't understand why my Iranian friends were upset by this film. After all, it's not the first time that Hollywood has done this. It has been doing it to Native Americans, blacks, Arabs, Germans, Japanese,... etc for years. Just last year we all saw "Borat" and we all laughed.

Eid-e-Nowruz goldfish

2007-03-07T19:11:00.000+03:30

The build up to Eid. Darakeh’s walnut and almond seller is branching out into the New Year goldfish market.

Goldfish are not one of the haft sin but still an indispensable part of the festive spread that every Iranian family displays at this time of year. They are said to represent the unexpected favours to be received in the coming year. Traditionally, they are set free in rivers when the holiday period ends. Some people take theirs to the ponds at mosques and shrines. My aunt’s goldfish from Nowruz 2006 is still going strong and will be making comeback appearance this year.

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Post Office, Vali-Asr Square

2007-03-07T18:41:00.000+03:30

Iran’s postal service is reliable and efficient. Sending packages internationally requires identification in the form of a passport. Bring your package unsealed as contents will be checked before dispatch.

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Tasbi (prayer beads)

2007-02-19T18:08:00.000+03:30

Strings of prayer beads are known as tasbi in Iran and here are some on sale in Tajrish bazaar. Most often they are seen dangling from the hands of middle- to old-aged men who tend to fiddle with them rather aimlessly. However for devout grandmothers, they are indispensable tools for tallying the number of prayers required to get a grandson into university or a sister out of her sickbed.

Remembering the Martyrs

2007-02-07T18:21:00.000+03:30

The scars of a war as devastating as the Iran-Iraq War (1980-1988) do not easily heal. Some counts put the number of Iranian casualties 300,000 with another 500,000 wounded. The number of Iraqi dead numbered round 375,000.

The Iranian establishment refers to the war as the “Iraq-imposed war” and Iran’s part in it is known as the “Sacred Defense”. Hence, Iran’s war dead are shahid (martyrs). Shiite Islam, so steeped in the culture of mourning, gives them a place alongside the paradigmatic holy victims; Imam Ali and Hossein.

Tehran is dotted with large painted murals commemorating the most famous of the Iraq war martyrs. Their fixed gazes tell nothing of the conflict that robbed them of their lives. The colours have faded with time but their complexions remain unaging.

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Iranian Music: Daf

2007-02-07T17:32:00.000+03:30

The daf is the other of Iran’s indigenous drums – the other is the donbak which I’ve already talked about elsewhere. As you can see from the picture, the daf is a wide, circular, frame drum. Inside the frame of the drum are hundreds of metal rings in short chains. The player beats the drum with his fingers while supporting it in his palms. With the movement and beating of the daf, the rings inside the frame strike the skin – the same way as the springs of a snare drum work. The sound is a combination between a bass boom caused by the hand and a high-pitched crash from the rings. The daf is a drum for dancing to. Indeed, it is the drum to which Sufi mystics dance the whirling, trance-inducing dance known as sama.

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Ghaliyan

2007-01-30T08:55:00.000+03:30

The Ghaliyan – or hookah as it is more widely known – is a water pipe used for smoking tobacco. Ghaliyan is still very much a part of popular culture in Iran – in fact you see more young people smoking it than old. You can smoke ghaliyan at working-class teahouses and at traditional restaurants where it is served to your table or rug with dates, sweets and of course tea. Places like these quickly fill with the sweet aroma of scented tobacco. Many Iranians – especially young men – bring their own on mountain walks and picnics, take coals from the barbecue and share a smoke after lunching on chicken kababs.

The pipe consists of several parts; a glass jug part-filled with water, a wooden, earthenware or metal stem fitted tightly to the jug, a brazier at the top of the stem for coals and tobacco and a hose with a mouthpiece attached to the jug above water level.

When you suck the mouthpiece, air is drawn past the coals in the brazier and this heats the tobacco. Smoke from the burning tobacco is then pulled down into the water jug where it is cooled and partly filtered of tar and other impurities. After bubbling up through the water (the sound it makes gives ghaliyan its other popular western name – hubbly-bubbly) it passes through the hose.

Traditionally the ghaliyun is used for smoking plain tobacco that you can still see in bazaars in the form of dry, brown folded leaves. These leaves have to be soaked before smoking. Now though, the most popular form of tobacco is the scented, flavoured variety which comes in a sticky paste wrapped in plastic and packed into small boxes. Some popular flavours are na’ana (mint), do-sib (two apples) and portogal (orange).

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Persian Carpets

2007-01-28T17:58:00.000+03:30

Persian Carpets

The seven main centers for production of Persian carpets in Iran are: Tabriz, Mashhad, Qom, Kashan, Nain, Esfahan and Kerman.

In Iranian culture carpets signify much, much more than just a floor covering.

Carpets in Iran symbolize wealth, investment and religious devotion. The earliest surviving Persian rugs date back to the Safavid Period.

Persian carpets are traditionally woven from wool or silk and have a long history of production and international trade on the ancient Silk Road, which passed through Persia between China and the West. Persian carpets have long been treasured by the rich in both the Far East and Europe.

Carpet motifs are classically symmetrical and often floral, symbolizing the design of classical Persian gardens.

Persian carpets are produced in three main sizes:

- mian farsh: 3m x 2.5m
- kellegi: 3.5m x 2m
- kenareh: 3m x 1m

Terms:

Gabbeh rugs - a colorful carpet often produced by nomadic tribes
Kilim - flat, geometrically patterned and woven rugs

Most Persian carpets are hand-woven on vertical looms by mainly female artisans from sheep or goat wool and occasionally from camel wool.

Persian carpets contain on average up to 30 knots per square centimeter.

Persian carpets are available for sale in their centers of production in Iran and from the bazaars of Tehran, Esfahan and Shiraz.

The Carpet Museum in Tehran provides the visitor with an excellent insight into the history of Persian carpet production, styles and techiniques.

The world's largest Persian carpet is the Ardebil Carpet.

Further information see Kimiya International

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Bridal SUV

2007-01-24T19:47:00.000+03:30

Iranian weddings are floral feasts and the car that gets the bride and groom to the ceremony is always elaborately festooned.

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Masuleh, Gilan Province

2007-01-24T19:21:00.000+03:30

Though Masuleh is one of Iran’s most valued architectural treasures it is also one of its humblest. Here it is not the sweeping vision of a master architect or the glory of a great king that tourists flock to appreciate, but the simplicity of a traditional village in a spectacular location untouched by the modern age.

Masuleh is located about a one and a half hour drive away from the city of Rasht, less than an hour away from Fumn, in the foothills of Mount Talesh. In fact, the village literally grips the mountainside, hanging on as if it were in danger of plunging into the river at its foot.

The architectural style that makes Masuleh special can be seen elsewhere in Iran but not so perfectly preserved. In order to accommodate houses, a bazaar, 18 mosques and all the facilities of a village of just under 2,000 inhabitants, the roofs of many buildings double up as the streets of the level above.

The height difference between the lowest and the highest points of this stepped village is about 100 metres. The car park at river level is as far up as motor vehicles can go – this being the only village in Iran in which automobiles are completely banned.

Much is being done in Masuleh to maintain buildings in the old ways. Every year walls get a fresh coating of mud, giving the whole village an organic feel – as if the buildings have grown out of the earth of the streets.

At the heart of the town is the bazaar which is a lively nest of alleys and stairways with cubby-hole shops selling a wide variety of handicrafts, freshly-baked sweets, a worrying preponderance of knives and all weaves and colours of silk scarves. One level above the bazaar are a number of restaurants and teahouses where you can lunch on kabab followed by tea and gheliyoon.

Stray up further and your chances increase of having a grumpy local chide you for not sticking to the "tourist areas". Not everybody here is glad of the attention that their picturesque little town brings. However, most of Masuleh’s inhabitants welcome the interest in their village and some even open their homes to guests for meals or overnight stays.

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Iran News 1/14/07

2007-01-14T16:01:00.000+03:30

Iran News

The BBC has three stories on Iran this week.

The first details the effects of traffic and new construction on the historic city of Isfahan

The cheap price of oil and the effects of pollution from cars leads to thousands of deaths in Tehran from smog every year.

Lack of job opportunities is leading to an estimated brain drain of 150,000 people each year leaving Iran.

The Iran Daily highlights "Clean Air Week in Tehran" to combat the threat of car pollution.

The Fars News Agency reports that the Iranian government has passed into law a regulation raising the voting age in local elections from 15 to 18.

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Iran's Azeri Turks

2006-12-22T09:39:00.000+03:30

If you hear a language other than Farsi on the streets of Tehran, most likely it's Azeri Turkish. Closely related but not identical to the national language spoken in Turkey, Azeri is spoken as a first language by about 20% of the Iranian population, mainly concentrated in the provinces of Eastern and Western Azerbaijan but it is also very commonly spoken in the capital. Estimates of just how many Iranians are ethnically Azeri Turks vary widely. One very commonly quoted statistic makes Azeris the largest single population group in Iran, making up 30 million of the country's population of ?70 million?.

Turks are stereotyped by other Iranians as flashy with their wealth and Turkish women are said to be great cooks and hardworking wives but rather expensive to maintain. Sadly, Turks are also widely ridiculed as being congenitally stupid. Jokes about Turkish simpletons make up a large majority of the new jokes circulating around schoolyards, workplaces and universities. Turks are also ribbed for not being able to pronounce the Farsi letters "(ghayn)" and "(jim)".

The Islamic Republic, as well as the Imperial Government before it, has tried to play down differences between Iranians and Azeris - perhaps fearing that an awakened sense of Azeri nationalism could threaten them. The Azeri language is not taught in schools, not even as an optional second language. Ironically, many powerful members of the political establishment - including Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei - are themselves Azeri Turks.

Turks have also experienced more serious persecution in modern Iran. In 1981, an uprising in Tabriz was brutally put down by the new government with heavy weapons and summary executions. However, on the whole, Iranian Turks do not have a strong urge towards separatism. The vast majority consider themselves as Iranian as Farsi speakers do.

The Cartoon Controversy

The most recent clash between Turks and the government came in the summer of 2006 when a cartoon published in the Iran Daily newspaper depicted an Azeri cockroach failing in an attempt to learn the Farsi language. The inflammatory image was not taken at all lightly by Azeris who took to the streets of Azerbaijan's major cities in thousands. Newspapers were burnt and offices of the offending publication were surrounded by angry protesters. In the end, the editor of the Iran Daily was sacked and President Ahmedinejad himself travelled to the region to patch up relations. The importance of up to 30 million voters clearly made the trip worthwhile.

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"Aash" restaurant, Enghelab Square

2006-12-01T13:04:00.000+03:30

Known to all Tehran University students and frequented by artists and bazaar traders alike, this "aash" restaurant is my current favourite spot for lunch in the city.

There are just two versions of the thick soup dish on offer and you get the feeling it's been that way for years. There's aash-e reshteh which is meatless and heavy with beans, pulses, herbs and wheat noodles and a minced meat-rich slop originating from Isfahan that I forget the name of. Both weigh in at a slim 500 Tomans.

The guy at the counter has served so many bowls that he won't even look at you until your money is on the counter. Once you get (or rather your cash gets) his attention he'll fill your bowl and dash kashk (a kind of dairy product something like a super-rich yogurt) and mint sauce over it and hand you half a naan-e barbari (see previous post).

Located on the northeast corner of Enghelab Square. Climb down the stairs and you'll see the two huge vats right in front of you.

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Barbari Bread

2006-11-25T22:08:00.000+03:30

This is "naan e barbari", one of the breads that is available fresh all over Tehran and Iran. It's crisp and golden on the outside and soft and white in between the crusts. Usually quite generously salted, barbari is tasty enough to eat on its own and one of the perks of going to buy it is the right to eat it piping hot on the way home. You can see from the picture that I've helped myself to the "head" of the loaf on the left.

It's often said that no matter how hard hard up you are for cash, you can always treat yourself (and/or a friend) to "barbari o nushabe", that is, barbari bread and fizzy drinks.

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Buses in Tehran

2006-11-06T21:09:00.000+03:30

There's probably no need for tourists to take buses in Tehran. But for those living and working in the city they are a great help. Private taxis are unaffordable for most and even shared taxis are expensive for many. So the bus - being practically a free ride - is a necessity.

Tickets are bought from manned (usually an old man!) kiosks at major transport intersections and they cost 200 Tomans (about $0.20) for 10.

One thing that might bother foreign visitors is the sex segregation. Women ride in the back and men in front. Some might find it ironic that in minibuses and shared taxis no such pains are taken to separate men and women.

There are no signs in English and I've only once ever seen a map that showed bus routes - labelled, of course, in Farsi.

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Iran Travel Bonus

2006-11-04T15:51:00.000+03:30

The Iranian government is offering cash bonuses to the country's travel agencies to lure foreign tourists to the country.

The Iranian news agency reported that the Tourism and Cultural Heritage Organization will offer US$20 for every American or European tourist who visits the country with a US$10 offer for every Asian tourist.

Iran is looking to expand its tourist industry especially for visitors from the USA and Europe.

President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad has come out against planned legislation to require US travelers to be fingerprinted at the nation's airports.

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From the Ceasefire Campaign:

2006-10-23T07:33:00.000+03:30

Dear Friends,

North Korea's nuclear test last week showed that policies of
isolation and threats of regime change will not prevent the spread of
nuclear weapons. We need to act quickly, before the Bush
Administration makes the same mistakes in Iran. The UN Security
Council is scheduled to discuss sanctions on Iran this week, making
it critical to get as many people as possible involved in this
campaign over the next few days, while world leaders are debating
their options. Click below to send a message to President Bush,
calling on the US to enter direct negotiations with Iran:

www.CeasefireCampaign.org

The last thing the world needs is a global nuclear arms race, so
let's seize this moment to show the Bush Administration that the
world has a stake in resolving things with Iran peacefully and will
hold him accountable.

Talks between the US and Iran won't guarantee a solution to the
nuclear problem, but no talks will guarantee failure. There is no
military solution to this issue, and President Bush's aggressive
policies have begun to spark a global nuclear arms race, as countries
rush to build nuclear weapons. There have been several calls, even
from prominent members of Bush's own Republican Party, to change
course. Join this rising chorus by clicking below:

www.CeasefireCampaign.org

The Bush Administration is starting to learn that it ignores global
public opinion at its peril. Let's send a strong message to President
Bush forward this email to your friends and family, and encourage
them to help prevent the nightmare of a new global nuclear arms race
from becoming reality.

Thanks!

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Cars in Iran

2006-10-21T17:16:00.000+03:30

According to a 2004 report in the Iran Daily, Iran would have 25 million vehicles on its roads by the year 2020 up from the 2004 figure of 5.4 million. Of this number, approximately half are crammed in to the capital Tehran.

Iran has had its own car industry since the 1960s and now exports cars to a number of other countries including Russia and Belarus. Iran Khodro Industrial Group, the country's major vehicle manufacturer, hopes to export 250,000 cars to the world market by 2010, targetting such countries as Egypt, Turkey and Eastern Europe as areas of growth with plans for joint production ventures under license in such countries as China, Senegal and Syria.

Iran's first mass-produced car, the ubiquitous Paykan, based on the 1966 Hillman Hunter, was produced domestically by Iran Khodro from kits shipped by the British manufacturer Rootes. In 1978 Peugeot took over the defunct Rootes Company, and production was shifted under license to Iran, ceasing only in 2005.

The Paykan has been superceded by Iran Khodro's new model, the Samand, which is based on the Peugeot 405. Plans are underway to produce a hybrid version of the Samand under pressure from the government to reduce vehicle emissions in Iran.

Precision Reservations offers deluxe accommodation throughout Iran including Tehran, Tabriz, Isfahan, Mashhad and Shiraz.

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